Tammie Teclemariam

“The seven-course sequence, which is also offered in a vegetarian version, has little overlap with the regular dinner menu and might be the best introduction to the boundless cooking of Chetan Shetty, who was most recently chef at Raina in D.C., and at Indian Accent prior to that. The meal kicks off with a tuile-thin tartlette of tuna tartare set with ginger gelée with a crunchy brunoise of red onion tamed by a scoop of kaluga caviar. Next comes a take on prosciutto and melon in which cantaloupe balls and dabs of saffron yogurt are hidden beneath petals of endive with a pour of green-apple broth. It’s followed by warm crab on a pile of snacky potato sticks sauced with a peppery foam, then cod in a creamy cilantro and tomatillo chutney. Breads appear at the end, with flaky paratha accompanying chicken in a creamy chile masala, topped with a mix of fried coriander, mustard, and anise seeds. Garlic-heavy naan arrives alongside a yielding piece of spiced short rib surrounded by a gentle and airy corn sauce. Dessert is chai ice cream buried in the middle of a salty roasted pistachio cream and covered with a heady rosewater ice: a fragrant and memorable final bite.”

New York Magazine