“Chickpea sponge dhokla at Passerine. This humble vegetarian cake made of chickpea flour has a texture something like cornbread, and is a staple of Gujarat in far western India, not far from Mumbai. At Passerine, a new upscale Indian restaurant a stone’s throw from Gramercy Tavern, chef Chetan Shetty, who is from Pune and has cooked in New Delhi, Washington, DC, and Chicago, plays with Indian flavors to make showy dishes, often enhancing humble recipes with luxury ingredients and thoughtful presentations. These bite-size dhokla ($10 per pair), part of his lounge menu, are squiggled with a pumpkin masala and decorated with pomegranate seeds for little tart bursts of flavor.” — The Best Dishes Eater NY Editors Ate This Week

Robert Sietsema

Eater